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November, 2004

My horse refuses to be bridled and lifts his head out of my reach when I try. It sometimes takes an hour or more to get him tacked up and I'm always worried that I might get hurt in the process when he tosses his head. What can I do?

Karen

Karen, If the pattern of lifting his head has become a habit, then you have your work cut out for you! Prevention is always the better way because once bad habits are established, they can be very difficult to change or re-teach. Many bad habits can be prevented by developing a common sense understanding of horse behavior and gaining an understanding of logical training methods. Patience is the key. It sounds as though your horse has never been properly taught to accept the bit soooo, first things first.

Firstly, we have to decide whether your horse's behavior is caused by plain disobedience or fear and/or pain prompting the fight. An experienced handler/trainer would be helpful in determining this. The cause could be physical such as cuts, bruises or abrasions around the tongue or mouth or teeth problems such as sharp edges or wolf teeth interfering with the bit. You can check for these problems by feeling around the edges of the teeth, taking care not to get bitten in the process.

If you rule out actual pain and fear of the bit, you need to teach your horse to lower his head when you place pressure on the poll. That is, when you touch the top of his head, he will willingly lower it to a proper height. This can be taught in a number of ways. Try holding a treat in one hand below his mouth. As he lowers his head, gently slide your other hand toward his poll and apply light pressure, holding it there while he eats his treat. You will eventually be able to lower his head without a treat and/or by touching high on his neck or poll. You might stand with him in a doorway or lower ceiling where if he lifts his head, he will bump it and immediately lower it again.

While your horse learns to lower his head with pressure on the poll, practice touching his muzzle and around the corners of his mouth, eventually opening his mouth and inserting the bit, making sure not to bump it harshly against his teeth. You might try removing the bit from the bridle to make this process easier, slipping the bridle over his head and connecting them once the bit is in your horse's mouth. Some have had success by rubbing the bit with a yummy tasting substance such as molasses, apple jelly or honey to make their horse willingly accept it.

Whatever method you try, be sure to take your time and be patient with your horse and yourself. It is always easier to teach a horse to do it right the first time rather than try to re-teach over an old bad habit. Be patient and good luck!

My instructor makes me carry a crop during my training sessions. I don't want to hit my mare but I have to admit, it has helped in getting response to my commands. What changes can I make so that I don't have to carry a crop and still have my horse mind me?

Carol

Good question. We first need to understand the use of a crop/whip and the reasons for carrying one. Crops are considered artificial aids and are not to be used as an abusive device. If used correctly, they can encourage a horse to respond to other natural aids such as our weight, voice, hands and legs. For instance, if you have asked your horse to move away from a leg aid and your horse has not followed through, you can then use your leg again while shifting or tapping the crop on his shoulder or sticking it out slightly so that he will move away from it in the direction that you want him to go. What you are accomplishing is gaining your horse's attention and teaching him to respond to your leg aid so that you won't have to use your crop the next time a command is given.

Patience and safety is important when using a crop and the rider needs to be careful and attentive in order to use it correctly. Your horse should not be frightened by the presence of a crop but, instead, he should learn to respect and respond to it accordingly. This can only be taught by using it humanely and under the guidance of a knowledgeable instructor.

Hopefully, when you have learned to give the correct signals with the right amount of pressure and timing, your horse will respond to the more natural aids and you won't need the crop for assistance.