August, 2004

My horse bites on the wood fences in his paddock and his feed box in his stall, making a sucking noise. Sometimes his teeth slip and his mouth bleeds where he scrapes it. He has a good disposition and doesn't tend to bite people, though. Question: What is he doing and can he hurt himself seriously? Is there anything I can do to make him stop?

Amy from Middletown, Connecticut

Amy, it sounds to me like your horse is a cribber and the sucking noise that you hear is actually air being sucked into your horse's lungs. Cribbing is an addictive behavior that can be harmful to a horse's health if not controlled but there are many horses that live a long and healthy lives cribbing to their hearts content! This vice is usually not curable or deterred by training and can cause a variety of problems such as indigestion and colic, but not always.

Boredom is a major cause of horses learning to crib. Other factors associated with cribbing are malnourishment, stressful situations, injuries and heredity. Cribbing reduces stress by causing the body to release endorphins (or natural "feel good" drugs) into the horse's system, thus relaxing the horse and causing pleasure - even reducing pain.

It was once thought that all the horses housed with a cribber would be taught to crib. This is not the case although some could pick up the habit if they are so inclined by their flighty or stressful disposition or nature.

Preventing and/or controlling cribbing is another problem altogether. Collars or straps fitted snugly around a horse's neck sometimes work by putting pressure on the forehead and/or neck muscles and inhibiting the expansion when biting or sucking air. Reducing stressful situations sometimes works but because a horse has already figured out that he feels good when he cribs, the acquired addiction is just too much. There is no surgery available to combat the issue of cribbing because it is behavioral, not physical - although some have tried to remove neck muscle to prevent cribbing - this is not an acceptable treatment so don't try it! Some horses have been treated with behavior altering drugs that relax and relieve stress and have enjoyed some success. Whatever method you choose, be consistent and humane in the control of cribbing.

Help!!! My horse has developed a limp and I can't find any marks or swelling on his legs or shoulders. What can I do?

Bailey from Marietta, GA

Hi Bailey. You said you could not find marks or swollen places but can you feel abnormal heat on the hooves, legs or shoulders? This could indicate an infection that hasn't surfaced yet, possibly an abscess in his hoof caused by contracted heels, a knick or bruise, or an embedded foreign object.

You didn't specify whether the limp was on the right or left, front or hind end so if you're not sure, clean all four hooves thoroughly and check for a puncture wound and/or heat. If either is present, your veterinarian should be called to relieve the pressure if possible and administer antibiotics if needed. You will be required to keep your horse in a stall and soak his foot in an Epson salts or linseed solution and keep it wrapped (or in a medicine boot) and free of all foreign materials (you know - manure, urine, dirt, rocks, etc.). The healing process will be approximately one to two weeks, depending upon the severity of the infection, but your horse's pain will be relieved quickly when the abscess is exposed and the pressure is relieved.

My horse will not stand still when I mount him. I'm wary to go on trail rides because I'm afraid that if I have to dismount, I won't be able to get back up. Can you help?

Judy from Cleveland, Ohio

Judy, you are certainly not alone with this problem. Many horses will move away from a rider when mounting and then go on to perform perfectly once the rider is in place. Frustrating, isn't it? Don't worry - help is on the way!

We should address a few different scenarios in order to find a solution that will work for your specific situation. Depending upon whether your horse is young or old, experienced or inexperienced, or has been trained to stand and is now changing his behavior are a few issues that need to be considered. A few other considerations might be your mounting style, your surroundings and/or the fit and comfort of your saddle.

It is essential for a young, inexperienced or flighty horse to develop self-confidence and trust so make sure that the mounting situation is safe, quiet and free from distractions. A good training method is to begin mounting while facing a wall or solid structure and having another handler available to soothe and steady your horse's head. Approach him slowly with a steady voice and hand as well as smooth and methodical body movements. While mounting, speak soothingly, saying "whoa" and have your ground handler reinforce the command by steadying him with a hand on his nose (not pinching his airways, of course) if your horse tries to move away. Try not to pull yourself up with all of your weight on the saddle. Instead, take a few slow, steady hops to gain upward momentum so that you won't throw your horse off balance.

When settled in the saddle, stand still and let your horse get comfortable and relaxed, petting him on the shoulder and rewarding him for not moving away. Dismount and repeat this lesson, rewarding him after each mounting session. After a few successful mounts, walk your horse off slowly and let him move around so he doesn't feel too confined. Your ground handler can move away at some point to allow you and your horse to try walking on your own. Repetition - reward, repetition - reward, repetition - reward. It works!

Sometimes, an experienced horse needs a training reminder about standing still. The above method works but you might need to be more definite in saying "whoa" to get your horse's attention and to convince him that you mean it. Fight the urge to jerk on the reins - instead, take charge with authority and use steady but meaningful pressure on the reins while "sitting deeply" and confidently in the saddle. Convince your horse to stand quietly after mounting and gain his undivided attention by stopping him and saying "whoa" if he walks away. Then pet him and move away slowly.

Does your saddle and girth fit properly? You may not have thought of this as a reason for your horse's misbehavior but it could be an issue if your saddle pinches or creates pressure points that cause your horse to flinch and move away. Check to see if your horse has any raw or tender spots on his back or girth area that may have been caused by an ill-fitting saddle or cinch. Better padding may be all you need to alleviate the problem but you might have to invest in properly fitted tack. When investing in a saddle, be aware that they should never fit directly on a horse's spine - the padded panels on either side should support it. Make sure that the withers are free of pressure and that the saddle properly supports the riders weight and distributes it evenly along the horse.